PORT WINES
Port, named
for Opporto, the Portugese city of its birth, is perhaps the best known
of the fortified wines.
Although there are numerous port-style wines made around the world – to use the term Port or Porto refers only to wines produced in Portugal. It is these wines that we will explore here.
HOW PORT IS MADE
Port, one of the most regulated wines, is produced in an area that was defined in 1756. Each vineyard is graded by the Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP) accordingly and classified into six different categories labeled "A" (best) through to "F".
At harvest time, in late September, fruit is delivered to winemaking facilities. The grapes are crushed and foot treading or pump over begins immediately (even before fermentation) to start the all-important process of color, flavor and tannin extraction. The fermentation is spontaneous, relying on yeast found naturally in the vineyard and winery.
In some places the wine is still trodden barefoot in open granite lagers (18 x 18 x 3 foot high troughs). This system was first introduced by the Romans.
When the sugar level falls roughly by half, grape spirit (brandy) is added to kill the yeast and stop fermentation. The exact moment to stop the fermentation is one of the most critical aspects of port making. The fortification "window" is open for just a few hours.
The following spring the port is moved to Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia, where it is left to mature for at least a year.
Maturation Process
Young port wine matures in wood casks or vats until it is ready for blending and bottling. However, the wines destined for Fine Tawny and Ruby are aged, taking advantage of the warm climate for a faster maturation process.
The wines are tasted and classified. After initial blending, the wines begin a long maturation process, with additional blending along the way.
Blending
After the second year of harvesting the careful process of evaluating and blending wines begins. It is now in the tasting room where reputation are made or lost. Within several months the final blend is made and it is submitted to the Instituto do Vinho do Porto for governmental approval. The IVP authority extends to analyzing and tasting a sample from every Port shipment. With its approval, it is bottled and the IVP's black and white seal of guarantee is attached to the neck.
Where there is an age indication on a brand (i.e. 10 years old), it refers to the average age of the blend.
Racking
Racking, or transferring wine from one cask to another to remove sediment, occurs three or four times in the first year, and then progressively fewer times each year thereafter. Before shipment, wood ports are fined for clarity and cooled to stabilize the wine. They do not need the ritual of decanting.
Vintage Ports are considered the pinnacle of all ports, and a company’s reputation is largely determined by the quality and style of its Vintage port. Vintage port is bottled unfiltered and requires careful decanting.
The vintage blend is always in very limited supply, amounting to only 1-3% of the entire production in any given year.
GRAPE VARIETIES
Although more than 80 different grape varieties are authorized for the production of port, the following five red-skinned grapes are widely considered the best for producing fine port wines.
- Touriga Nacional - (tor-EE-ga NASH-ee-oh-nal) Considered to have the most color, along with an intense black currant nose, plenty of body and powerful tannins. The backbone of most vintage ports. Known for its low yield, preference for stony soils and ripening in mid-season.
- Touriga Francesa - (tor-EE-ga fran-shay-shuh) Quite different from Nacional. More delicate, it brings softness and roundness to the blend. Prefers dry soil and plenty of heat. Ripens last in the season.
- Tinta Roriz - (TEEN-ta ror-EEsh) Brings firmness and length and gives "backbone" to the blend. Does better in cooler years. Ripens in mid-season. Called Tempranillo in Spain.
- Tinta Barroca- (TEEN-ta bar-OSH-a) Known for ripening to higher sugar content than the other varieties. In good years, it runs a close second to Nacional for intensity of aroma, flavor and body. Requires more water than the others, so is planted at the lowest points of a vineyard. Ripens early in the season.
- Tintã Cão - (TEEN-ta cow) Like Roriz, noted more for the backbone and "breeding" than for absolute power. Also contributes to the aftertaste. Ripens in mid-season.
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